This is a report via the Bluewater Cruisers Association from someone who weathered cyclone Pam.

Randall Donofrio ?Liveaboard Sailboat


We already knew Friday the 13th of March was going to be a black day with talk of the Vanuatu Beast and Nuclear Cyclones having done the rounds for a week or so. As currently forecast, the eye was going to side swipe us by about 100 miles at category 5.

Our boat was already hauled, cottage cyclone shutters in place, big battery, inverter and lights for the cyclone itself and generator for the post cyclone power outage. It’s funny, after weathering cyclones on boats with only solar panels, we realized we needed a generator to run our fridge etc. Not so self sufficient as land lubbers. Plenty of food and drinking water in stock as well as charged phone batteries, kindle & laptop.

The morning of the 13th was spent doing a couple of last minute preparations and talking about strategies & contingencies with the Admiral. Our cottage is 4 metres above high tide mark and about 8 metres back from the water on a lagoon. The winds were forecast to come straight across the lagoon at us then veer to the southwest as the eye passed, so we were going to receive the full brunt of what Pam had to offer, with water thrown into the mix as well.
As the winds built we battened down and by lunch time we had 40 knots gusting to 60, nothing too dramatic yet if you have ever lived in Wellington NZ. By early evening it was really starting to boogie and we stood by to lose power at any moment.

Around 1900 we received an updated warning that the system had changed track and was heading more or less directly for us. We had been concerned about losing the roof and what we would do so we had built a small bunker out of 2 very strong tables, covered with a tarpaulin and sheltering our important papers, mementoes etc. with barely enough room for us. After the latest update we decided to enlarge the bunker with a king size bed base supported by the 2 tables and 2 chairs with the mattress underneath for us to sleep on, all kept cozy with the tarpaulin covering the whole lot.

We’ve both lived and worked on the windiest place on Earth and experienced what Antarctica can show but NOTHING prepares you for 130 knots of sustained winds for a few hours. The wind skipped through the “shrieking” phase and went to the “moaning” very quickly but we were so exhausted we actually slept for some time.
The devastation we awakened to on the Saturday was mind boggling. Our cottage proved her worth as an old school colonial building and was almost completely untouched. We were one of the few lucky ones with rooves, trees and assorted debris blocking every street and road.

The clearing effort started immediately and when we were able to get to the harbour we were confronted by about 90% of the moored boat fleet either damaged, sunk, semi submerged or tossed up on shore like a toy boat. Unconfirmed news was reaching us of 3 yachties dead. The coastal trading fleet were lying like a row of tipped over dominoes on Iririki Island with some small boats crushed in between them.

One 90’ steel dive boat had managed to cut a swathe through the moored boats, sinking some, holing others and breaking moorings. Derelict vessels that Marine & Ports had done nothing about broke their lines and holed other boats.
In amongst it all were a few yachts that had survived by some miracle, including an old classic Bass Strait sailing cray boat. None of the owners had expected to have a boat in the morning so the 5 yachts that survived were truly blessed.
We had one boat listed for sale by an absentee owner which ended up with her mast poking through the Waterfront Bar & Grill (for those that know Port Vila). I contacted him yesterday to see if he had insurance, the answer was “no” and he had resigned himself as early as last Wednesday that he had lost his boat. The chainsaw starts tomorrow to remove it.

All this is the devastation from one small part of Vanuatu. Google a map and understand that this system passed the whole length of the island chain, most of which we still have no communication with. Spare a thought for the people of Vanuatu and make sure you come here this year if you are planning to, the country needs yachties like never before.

This is an amazing country with amazing people, I have not seen a single outward show of grief yet there is plenty to grieve about. Some of the first businesses to re-open were the nakamals where people go to enjoy a relaxing shell of kava. We sat around, expats and ni-Vans talking about how lucky we are.
For the person that asked, the lagoon east of the main harbour is barely navigable at the entrance but will allow a 6’ draft to enter at high tide but is actually around a very nasty weather point to approach so has never really been used. (This is the lagoon we live on).

Oh BTW, our yacht “Nightcap” survived the onslaught but, despite being tied down, 8 props and being in the lee of the worst wind managed to fall over gracefully and is now lying on her side. One day I’ll post how to properly prepare a keeler for the strongest storm in recorded history for this part of the world.

Vice Commodore, OCC 

Update from Yacht Adina


Hello All,

We thought we would write a quick update on Adina 's progress on getting the aid out that we are carrying from various kind donors, as a few of you have asked for updates. This email is mainly aimed at sailing friends/cruisers who are planning to come to Vanuatu and want to bring aid. It is our personal view of what to expect/how to help etc, based on our experiences to date.

Please bear in mind, we are sending this using our sat phone so while we welcome replies, remember to start a new email and not reply to this one.


WHERE WE 'VE BEEN SO FAR:
We chose to head north from Efate where the capital, Port Vila, is situated and we had been based for the cyclone season. Our first stop, we anchored in Sulua Bay (17°02.974 'S, 168°22.300 'E) on the island of Emae, one of the Shepherd Islands. After this we had planned to continue north and stop on the south of the island Epi, but with strong trade winds and heeding local knowledge we were advised it wouldn 't be safe to anchor. So we headed to the south-west of Epi and anchored at rolly Ivo/Nelson Bay (16°45.747 'S, 168° 09.157 'E). Here we did a quick assessment of two local villages who had been less impacted by the cyclone so hired a 4WD to take us to the village of Votlo on South Epi, knowing that village needed help.

We chose these areas based on advice from Port Vila local charity ProMedical, Sam and Jess of Kaleva Yacht Service and a report on Epi compiled by chiefs kindly given to us by David and Lynn of the Butterfly Trust.

Considering the islands worst affected by the cyclone, our thinking on sailing north from Port Vila was defined by the fact that we know Tanna and Erromango are getting help from current aid efforts and cruisers arriving from New Zealand and that the Shepherd Islands close to Efate, within reach of local day boats, are similarly getting aid. The anchorage on Emae is 38nm to the north of Havannah Harbour in north Efate and beyond the reach of small local boats. Epi is 22nm north from there.


OUR EXPERIENCE ON EMAE:
On arrival in Emae we took a few supplies and went to the village of Tapakoro where we spoke to the chief, Usamoli Samuel (phone: +678 7741702). Their village has been very badly damaged from the cyclone. The majority of houses were lost, their crops were destroyed, water tanks damaged and they lost some cattle. They had harvested some crops before the cyclone and are still eating those now; they have replanted some of the crops that they saved and already have island cabbage (like spinach) growing.

They seemed a very well organised and harmonious village. There are 11 families, around 40 people. Typically positive, they have been clearing up (using 2 chainsaws from the government) and rebuilding what they can with what they have got. They have very limited materials to work with.

Asking them what they need, building materials and food were the biggest request. They have implemented a community project of planting quick-growing crops. No-one is starving but they were very grateful of anything and estimate it will be 3 months before crops are growing sufficiently that they will be able to feed themselves.

We arranged to meet at the beach the next morning and in advance we asked the chief if he would help in ensuring our small aid was fairly shared and to invite another village. The next morning people from both Tapakoro and Veima villages came down to the beach and carried the supplies to Tapakoro where it was placed in a communal hall. The chief kindly thanked us for coming to help saying it was a complete surprise and in turn we did a quick speech saying the goods were from donations from friends.

Our goods were taken to a central point and each household had a bowl into which all food was divided, fair and square. Then all the kitchenware, plates, bowls, toiletries etc. were shared out too. Even the clothing was equally shared and caused much amusement for the man trying to distribute it. They went to the extent of sharing the nails out one-by-one and even took the 600m of rope and worked out each household got 37.5m. All axes, hammers, saws and things like tarpaulins became communal property.

Susie ran a basic first aid clinic treating around 20 people with various cuts, sores etc.

The things they have asked for and we agree they need quickly are more building materials, food, water and seeds to replant crops.


OUR EXPERIENCE ON SOUTH EPI:
When we arrived we visited two villages. While we saw some damage in the form of damaged huts/roofs had been sustained, it was not at the same level as Emae. Crops have been damaged but we could still see the likes of tarot growing (a common root vegetable). While it was a tough call, we decided to stick to our original plan and asked a villager if we could arrange transport to get to South Epi to the village of Votlo. A bumpy, fun ride on poor roads, 1h30min later we arrived. It was immediately evident that they sustained a lot more damage. Most houses were flattened. They have some tarpaulins, have planted new crops but food and water are still in short supply. The school is closed due to damage. Water is hauled from a distance off. With time short for our hired truck, in the presence of the chief and all the people of the village we handed over the aid, explained it all, walked around the village and offered basic medical help but the chief said everyone was well. It was a shame we had to leave after a short while but people were again very appreciative.

Our overall experience is that the Shepherd Islands and South Epi still need more assistance.


WHAT TO BRING
Key requirements seem to be building materials and food at this stage.
- Bring building materials including nails (lots!), hammers, saws, axes, strong rope. Please buy cyclone proof style nails for roofs, these are readily available in the hardware stores in Port Vila (Wilco, Port Vila Hardware). More secure are cyclone proof screws, but these require a drill and as islanders do not have these or the power for them, get the twisted nails with round heads. The lengths of nails we understand used for traditional roofs are 6", 4" and 2". Traditional natangura used for roofs is expected to take one to three years to grow.
- For food, we supplied tinned meat and fish, rice, tea bags, powdered milk, Milo powdered drink and biscuits. Powdered milk was popular. A packet of biscuits gets a big smile. One man told us the rice we gave (approximately 3kg per household) would feed his small family for about 2 weeks. We bought everything in Port Vila from the Bon Marche Warehouse (you can buy in bulk here, by the box load).
- Kitchen utensils were mentioned as being in need - we supplied plastic plates, bowls, cups, cutlery, cooking utensils, cleaning cloths, towels, buckets. These can be sourced from one of the many Chinese shops in Port Vila - we chose Uncle Bill 's in the centre of town on 'Chinese Alley '.
- Few were thinking about health and we supplied anti-bacterial soap, toothpaste and toothbrushes. For anyone she treated, Susie gave extra antiseptic wipes, plasters, wound dressings etc. for them to use themselves for the next few days. She also reminded everyone to wash hands before cooking, after using the toilet and for children, to wash around their neck/upper chest, underarm and groin areas (based on advice from medics seeing children with rashes/infections in those areas) - this always got a giggle from the children as she stood demonstrating where to wash.
- People seemed to have recovered their limited clothing from the cyclone but any clothes will be greatly appreciated.


OUR ADVICE ON HOW TO APPROACH GIVING AID
- Think realistically about what/how much you have and who you can help. Far better to make a meaningful difference to one village than spread yourself thin over several villages.
- First and foremost ask to speak to the chief. Chiefs are friendly, helpful people and there are no formal ceremonies as in Fiji. If the chief isn 't there, many villages have elders who you could also talk to.
- Do try and reach out to villages beyond those at the anchorages. It 's not easy, but talk to a chief and ask him if he knows other villages that need help. You may need to hire transport.
- Try and do a self-assessment before you start giving things. Start with general chit-chat - what was it like, where did they stay during the cyclone? Ask how much damage was done? Look around the village, ask what aid they have received, what food they have, what crops they have/are growing? Ask about re-building efforts, what the community is doing? Try your best and just use common sense, none of us are disaster recovery experts.
- You 'll find people are getting on with life, making the best of things. You 'll probably be there when building efforts are well under way, and crops are starting to grow.
- You will find the locals a little shy in asking what they want so you may need to prompt them on their needs. You will usually find English is spoken by at least some of the village, and if not, try French.
- Once you have picked your village tell the chief what you can give and your plans. Tell him you want everything shared and ask him how he can help organise it. If time permits, return the next day as with our case in Emae, they planned themselves and were keen to show us they would share everything.
- Expect a small speech from the chief. In return, it 's good to stand-up and say a few words and explain where your aid came from and why you are there. This is normal and courteous throughout Vanuatu and you 'll get a healthy applause and a lot of smiles.
- Explain everything you have bought. In particular, explain any toiletries and any basic medical aid. Encourage hygiene as children have been getting sick.
- You will most likely get some small offering in return, this is Vanuatu culture. Typically some crop, perhaps a craft; if they give you food, pick a little thing and tell them they should keep the rest.
- Tell them what skills you have and how you can help. Cruisers have always been relied on to help fix things. Things will appear from non-functioning water pumps to broken personal DVD players.
- Try catch some fish - bring it ashore to share and expect a crowd.


FINAL THOUGHTS
If possible, please spend your donor money in Port Vila where there are plenty of supplies especially food and hardware. The hardware stores are well stocked with re-building materials and you can get them VAT-free if you explain they are for rebuilding after the cyclone. Most importantly, your money goes into the local economy.

Do download the free guide 'All Ports Lead to Vanuatu ' from www.cruisingvanuatu.info for everything you need to know about Vanuatu. A quality production.

For up-to-date advice, Port Vila locals and experts Sam and Jess of KYS are trying to co-ordinate cruiser help, together with Eric and Anne Simmons who produce the cruising guide and David and Lynn of the Butterfly Trust who know these islands well. All in cc on this email.

The longer you stay in an anchorage, the more you will be absorbed into the community and the harder you will find it to leave. Remember, after your efforts helping, in the more northern islands unaffected by the cyclone, things like land diving in Pentecost are still on in April/May/June. Please visit! We can assure you of the adventure of a lifetime with the nicest, friendliest people possible who will be so appreciative of your visit.

We hope this information helps you, please share it with others so that more can be done for this wonderful country blighted by a cyclone but determined to stand proud once more.

Kind regards,
Tom and Susie
www.yachtadina.co.uk
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Vice Commodore, OCC