Impact of knots on rope strength


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neilm
neilm
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There is some good data on the extent to which various knots weaken ropes at
http://caves.org/section/vertical/nh/50/knotrope-hold.html



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neilm
neilm
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 38, Visits: 16
Something strange happened to the link in my post above on impact of knots on strength of ropes
I think it is fixed now

On a related issue, an article on the impact of water on strength of climbing ropes shows that wet nylon has only about 30% of the strength of dry nylon when subject to abrupt shock loads, such as a falling rock climber.  ​I suspect the situation is not quite so bad in the less abrupt shock loads seen in anchor rodes.  Data on tests would be very interesting.​
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